Don’t know much about history…

Many moons ago in one of my history classes at school in Singapore I recall learning about the Opium Wars through which the English came to have a foothold in Hong Kong. At the time of course, I often wondered, no doubt like many other of my classmates, what relevance any of this would have to me. In most assignments, we memorized the dates and events and regurgitated them. It was later at the University of Singapore that I learned about perspective and the real value of history.

Now, I find that I’m in Hong Kong and I wonder how this place must have looked in the early 19^th century when the English stepped ashore to plant the Union Jack. This time, I’m genuinely interested in the past and how this place came to be the way it is now—a unique blend of east and west, a place of ancient traditions, cutting edge innovations, banking and financial hub, and an insatiably commercial metropolis.  

According to my handy dandy guide book, early trade between Hong Kong and Britain was unfavorable until they began to bring opium into China in the late 18^th century. Despite bans by the emperor, this trade continued until in 1839, half a ton of opium was destroyed by the Chinese authorities. This gave Britain the excuse that it needed to take military action against China. To make a long story short, the upshot was that a small hilly island near the mouth of the Pearl River was ceded “in perpetuity” to the English as they had demanded. So Hong Kong formally became a British possession in 1842. After a second war over opium, the Kowloon peninsula also came under British control and later the “the New Territories” were leased to Britain for a period of 99years.

Fast forward to 1997– there was much pomp and ceremony when Hong Kong was returned to Chinese sovereignty on July 1st. It’s now a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China. So it’s basically a “one country, two systems” situation.

 We are living on campus at Lingnan University, a small college with 2,000 plus students in the New Territories. It’s nice to see so many fresh young faces as they begin their new term. Generally, it’s “quieter” here than being on Hong Kong Island itself. To get some perspective geographically, there’s Hong Kong Island, there’s Kowloon on the mainland and adjoining that the New Territories. These entities and the many small offshore islands make up Hong Kong.

 It’s easy to move about because the transportation system here is terrific. There’s a very good MTR – mostly underground rail network that goes everywhere. Since our arrival we’ve also taken the tram up to the Peak, (a must-see place) to get a good view of the city. (Some of the scenes from the 1950s movie Love is a many splendored thing starring William Holden and Jennifer Jones were shot here, I believe.) We also rode on a bus to Stanley Market. The ocean views along the route are incredible- harbor vistas, beaches, mountains and many islands! Stanley Market, of course is a favorite tourist spot for all kinds of bargains and we’ve heard about its fame from some of our own East Lansing friends. Hong Kong shopping is duty free and tax free! Plenty of time for that still….

What’s striking about the city is how so many buildings, businesses and homes are built right on the hillsides. Many trees and plants are buttressed by stone, cement and other structures for stability. Roads can be pretty steep.

So far our most interesting adventures here concern food.  We went looking for Indian spices and were directed to Chungking Mansion- a real hole in the wall place inhabited by various retailers, money changers, small grocery shops, tiny take- out/eat in places. We found the spices and also sampled the Indian/Pakistani food sold –pretty good as we had been told. Not much for atmospherics though. In that whole general area, men would continually ask us if we wanted to buy a watch. We found out later that if you actually wanted to acquire a fake watch, you’d be taken to a nearby location –practically an empty room and an assortment of watches would be brought in for you to review and haggle over! I’m happy with my modest watch and have no need for a fake Rolex!

This is a vibrant, dynamic and happening place. Parts of it remind us of New York City! There are many amazing sights that await us –however none can be sweeter than seeing and talking with our daughters on Skype – which we have been doing. Till the next time,

Naseem and Bob